As I was modelling yesterday, I sat down to retouch my makeup. My photographer grabbed his camera and started shooting. The result, were these amazing behind-the-scenes beauty shots.
Funnily enough, the lens he used, came from 1964! I am not very knowledgeable about photography, so I was interested in learning how fantastic the lenses were, back in the Golden Age.
This makeup look I created can work for everyone. Whether you are much darker than me or fairer, whether you have green eyes or blue, blonde hair or brown (you get the point), this is one of the most accessible. The reason being in particular, my lipstick is almost hinting to a plum. It’s not too bright, too dark or too bold; it’s a really complimentary tone.
The technique is straightforward. I have done a classic red lip look before, which you can click and see here . Actually I have done many looks with red lipstick, maybe to show how versatile it can be.
So while the technique is simple, the precision is what really edits this into full on glamour. I had to go back over everything! There are some key traits I want to pick up on, and application methods that can help you to modernise, this iconic Hollywood makeup.
The shadow never strays too far
Generally, keep your base shadow always lighter than the crease, and go for a matte cream. Marilyn Monroe wore white eyeshadow and you can go fairly bright. This is a thing to take into consideration, the tone has to match for both the eyes and lips. If you put on a bright lipstick, it appears more balanced and natural if you also use a bright neutral eyeshadow.
If you use a darker lipstick, go for a darker cream. Personally, to me what keeps this up to date, is the fact it’s a bit darker and edgier, therefore I would go with a good matte cream. Shimmer is perfect for the inner corners and under the eyebrows. If you noticed, mine is quite subtle yet still effective. You don’t always need a strong highlight, to get the effect.
Lipsticks are a mixing bag
Do a Marilyn and pair one shade with another. Not only does this create a unique, beautiful shade, it adds dimension. If you want a fuller looking lip, start with a darker red first. Something with almost a hint of brown and then contrast over the top with a more pinkier colour. Imagine it almost as Mac’s Russian Red first, then Ruby Woo over the top. (I have not actually tried those colours together, but they are popular and might help give you an idea).
On top of that use lipliner. When I was working for a huge cosmetic brand, people always asked, do I really need it? And truthfully no. If you want that defined lip, then yes. Sometimes you can make a different effect without it.
With red on the other hand, always YES! The best way is short, tiny strokes. I am gutted this Clarins Ruby colour has discontinued! If I find something similar, I will let you guys know! It really is a stunning, adaptable colour.
I had to hold my mirror to apply. If you have the luxury of two hands free, use one to balance. If you find your hand shaky, almost lean it against your face. Trying to draw big long strokes in one go, most likely results in mistakes.
Eyeliner is a line that traces your eye
This means you need to simply follow your own eye. Don’t try to go clever and do some eyeliner technique. In fact, Old Hollywood stars use to do simple lines like this. Start at the edge and go thinner as your eye goes thinner. Keep the flick short and punchy. Even if you are doing this makeup for night.
Is it me or would a long flick link this more towards Instagram makeup?
I took the line ever so slightly under and please do not drag it all the way down. More is not always more! The eyeliner should come ever so slightly down and smudged, then an eyeshadow should be blended further to the middle with the inner corners light.
Bronze it like a statue
Do you have a good contouring shade? Use it for your eyes as well as your cheeks. One of the most simplest ways to bring your makeup together.
For this look, I always grab my big blending brush and contour my crease. A dark brown was then added on top and blended up.
It’s the same with cheeks. I take a contouring bronzer down under my cheekbone, a warmer bronzer over the top and then blush. Light layers go along way! Blush stops the red from draining the colour out of your skin. Some people say, “won’t this be too much?”, with red it’s just not the case.
In Old Hollywood, a bright pink was normally applied. For this, I say go towards that bronzy peach.
If you love fashion, you need to follow my photographer from this shoot on Instagram. @geoffnicholsphotography. He regularly shoots for LFW and PFW with celebrities and people in the fashion industry.